Travel – Page 2 – David Enzel

Maison Européenne de la Photographie: A Home for Photography

September 20, 2025September 18, 2025

In the heart of the Marais in Paris lies the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP). It isn’t a grand, imposing museum like the Louvre or the Musée d’Orsay. Instead, it feels intimate, almost hidden — a place where you can stand quietly before a single photograph, letting it work on you without distraction.

Encountering Marie-Laure de Decker

The exhibition that stopped me in my tracks was devoted to Marie-Laure de Decker. Before this visit, I knew nothing about her. Yet her black-and-white images held me still: the grain of film, the intensity of her subjects’ eyes, the strange balance of fragility and strength.

Her story is as remarkable as her photographs. De Decker began as a striking fashion model in Paris. She saved enough money to buy her first Leica and soon turned the camera on the world’s conflicts. Her photographs from Vietnam and Chad carry a rare humanity — not just war and suffering, but dignity, presence, and survival.

Two of her cameras, a well-worn Leica M3 and M4, are on display at the MEP. Ordinary tools, scratched and aged, yet heavy with history and courage.

More Than a Museum

The MEP is not just a gallery of images. It feels like a home for photography itself, where established masters share the stage with emerging voices. Its bookstore is a temptation all its own — shelves lined with rare catalogues, monographs, and books that open like personal invitations into other lives.

And when you step back outside, you’re in the Marais: narrow old streets, bustling cafés, a Paris scaled to human rhythm.

Marie-Laure de Decker – on display at the MEP

What Matters

Standing in front of de Decker’s work, I felt something I sometimes forget: the latest gear matters very little. What endures is the eye, the courage to see, and the willingness to be present.

The MEP reminded me why I fell in love with photography in the first place. It is not only about images. It is about memory, refuge, and meeting the world through another’s gaze.

If You Go

If Paris is in your plans, make time for the Maison Européenne de la Photographie. You may arrive expecting to see photographs. But if you linger, you might leave changed — carrying the weight of another person’s vision, and perhaps, a little more courage to see the world for yourself.

La Grande Arche de la Défense: A Modern Monument to Humanity

August 18, 2025August 18, 2025

La Grande Arche de la Défense (“The Great Arch of the Defense”), originally called La Grande Arche de la Fraternité, is a monumental building in the business district of La Défense, in the commune of Puteaux, west of Paris. Usually referred to simply as La Grande Arche, the 110-meter-high (360 ft) cube is part of the historic axis that runs from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe. The distance between the two arches is about 4 km (2.5 miles). Built as one of President François Mitterrand’s Grands Projets, it stands as a symbol of modern France.

In 1982, a national design competition was launched at Mitterrand’s initiative. The winning entry, by Danish architect Johan Otto von Spreckelsen (1929–1987) and engineer Erik Reitzel (1941–2012), reimagined the Arc de Triomphe for the late 20th century. Instead of commemorating military victories, their design celebrated humanity and humanitarian ideals.

Construction began in 1985, led by French civil engineering company Bouygues. In 1986, Spreckelsen resigned and transferred his responsibilities to his associate, French architect Paul Andreu, best known for his work on Charles de Gaulle Airport. Reitzel remained involved until the monument was completed in 1989.

The structure takes the approximate form of a perfect cube, with a width, height, and depth of 110 meters. Some have suggested it resembles a hypercube—or tesseract—projected into three dimensions. Built with a prestressed concrete frame clad in glass and covered in white granite from Bèthel, Italy, the Arche has a striking, minimalist presence.

La Grande Arche was inaugurated in July 1989 during celebrations marking the bicentennial of the French Revolution, including a grand military parade that passed beneath its soaring frame.

Sources: Wikipedia | French moments

Father Pitt: A Public-Domain Photo Treasure of Pittsburgh

August 18, 2025

If you’re interested in Pittsburgh, the blog Father Pitt offers a wide-ranging collection of photographs of my hometown.

The author remains anonymous, but the site is maintained with care and updated regularly. Each photo is accompanied by thoughtful descriptions, and the entire collection is released to the public domain under a CC0 dedication—making it both a visual resource and a gift to the community.

Planning a Trip to France? Start with the ‘Join Us in France’ Podcast

August 17, 2025

If you’re planning a trip to France—or simply want to deepen your understanding of French history and culture—the Join Us in France podcast is a superb resource.

Launched in 2014, the podcast was originally co-hosted by Elyse and Annie, two women who know France inside and out. Annie was born in France but has also lived in the United States, while Elyse grew up in New York yet speaks the language fluently and has an encyclopedic grasp of French culture and history. Ironically, Elyse, the American, often seems “more French” than Annie, who was born there. Due to time constraints, Elyse no longer appears regularly but still joins when she can.

The podcast shines in the way it makes France approachable for American listeners. I especially enjoyed episodes on driving in France, French cheese, and Le Marais in Paris. Another episode on modern and contemporary art in France introduced me to 18 museums across the country, many of which I hadn’t known before.

Each episode comes with detailed show notes—an invaluable aid for trip planning. Unlike the many resources that focus mainly on hotels and restaurants, this podcast helps you understand the soul of France.

For additional perspective, Annie and Elyse were also featured in Amateur Traveler episode 428 about Paris. Amateur Traveler is a podcast I listen to often, and it covers destinations around the world. But if your focus is France, Join Us in France is the podcast to follow.

From Synagogue to Frauenkirche: Nuremberg’s Church of Our Lady

August 16, 2025

The Frauenkirche (“Church of Our Lady”) stands on the eastern side of the main market in Nuremberg, Germany. An example of brick Gothic architecture, it was built between 1352 and 1362 on the initiative of Charles IV (1316–1378), Holy Roman Emperor.

The church’s origins are bound up with tragedy. In 1349, during the Black Death, a violent pogrom led to the expulsion of Nuremberg’s Jewish community. Charles IV ordered the city’s synagogue demolished, and the Frauenkirche was built on its ruins as part of the newly created Hauptmarkt.

Yet within a few years, the city authorities, short of money, sought to attract Jews back. In 1351, Charles IV allowed their return under specific conditions, and by 1382 the Jewish community numbered more than 500, concentrated in the Judengasse (today’s Judenstrasse). More background can be found at the Jewish Virtual L ibrary.

Centuries later, between the two world wars, Nuremberg became a stronghold of the Nazi Party. Julius Streicher (1885–1946) founded one of the first local branches there in 1922 and published the antisemitic weekly Der Stürmer. The city also hosted massive Nazi rallies, and its Jews lived under daily harassment and threat.

The Frauenkirche itself was nearly destroyed during the bombing of Nuremberg (see photo above) in World War II, leaving only its nave walls and façade. Restoration was completed in 1953, and today the church once again dominates the Hauptmarkt as both a historic monument and a reminder of the city’s layered past.

The Institut de France: Guardian of Knowledge and the Arts

August 16, 2025

The Institut de France is a French learned society that brings together five académies, including the prestigious Académie Française, guardian of the French language. Founded in 1795 at the direction of the National Convention, it is housed on the Quai de Conti in the 6th arrondissement of Paris.

Today, the Institut oversees nearly 1,000 foundations, along with museums and châteaux open to visitors. It also distributes prizes and grants—amounting to more than €27 million annually in 2017—most of them awarded on the recommendation of the académies.

Faithful to the mission set for it in 1795, the Institut and its five académies continue “to contribute, on a non-profit basis, to the progress and influence of letters, sciences, and the arts; to honor useful inventions and discoveries; to recognize distinguished artistic achievements; and to reward noble deeds and the steadfast practice of civic and social virtues.”

Dancing in the Heart of Paris: Place Colette

August 16, 2025

Tucked beside the Comédie-Française, Place Colette is more than just a Parisian square—it’s a stage where the city itself performs. Named in 1966 after the writer Colette (1873–1954), following a request by her daughter to then–Minister of Culture André Malraux, the square has since become a beloved gathering spot. On warm evenings, people often come here to dance in public, filling the air with music and movement. It’s a joy to witness, and a reminder of Paris’s enduring spirit of playfulness.

Suggestion: If you’re nearby, try this walking route that includes Place Colette, the Palais-Royal, and surrounding streets. It’s a beautiful way to experience Parisian history and atmosphere at a relaxed pace.

The Pegnitz River and Nuremberg’s Place in History

August 16, 2025

The Pegnitz is a river in Franconia, in the German state of Bavaria. Its source is in the town of Pegnitz (population ~15,000), about 27 km south of Bayreuth. The river runs for about 113 km (70 mi) before meeting the Rednitz in Fürth to form the Regnitz. Along its course, it flows through Nuremberg (population ~545,000), the largest city in Franconia, the second-largest in Bavaria, and the 14th-largest in Germany.

Nuremberg is famous for its castle and extensive city walls, with their many towers—among the most impressive fortifications in Europe.

Nuremberg in the Nazi Era

From 1933 to 1945, Nuremberg held special significance for the Nazi regime. The city was chosen as the site of massive Nazi Party rallies, staged in 1927, 1929, and annually from 1933 to 1938. These events were designed as propaganda spectacles.

The 1934 rally was filmed by Leni Riefenstahl, resulting in the propaganda film Triumph des Willens (Triumph of the Will).
At the 1935 rally, Hitler convened the Reichstag in Nuremberg to pass the Nuremberg Laws, which stripped Jews and other so-called “non-Aryans” of German citizenship.

After the collapse of Nazi Germany, Nuremberg again became a focal point of world history. Between 1945 and 1946, the surviving top Nazi leaders were tried for war crimes and crimes against humanity at the International Military Tribunal. The proceedings took place in Courtroom 600 of the Nuremberg Palace of Justice. (The cross visible today in the courtroom was added later by the postwar German government and was not present during the trials.)

Honduras: Resilience and Natural Beauty Amid Challenges

August 16, 2025

Ponant’s Dumont-d’Urville is a beautiful way to travel in French style. We spent much of our cruise exploring Honduras and the rest in Belize.

Honduras is bordered to the west by Guatemala, to the southwest by El Salvador, to the southeast by Nicaragua, to the south by the Pacific Ocean at the Gulf of Fonseca, and to the north by the Gulf of Honduras, a large inlet of the Caribbean Sea. Its capital and largest city is Tegucigalpa, home to about 1.6 million of the country’s 9.5 million people. Slightly larger than Tennessee, Honduras is unique in Central America for having two major urban centers: Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula.

Honduras is one of the poorest countries in Latin America and has one of the world’s highest murder rates. More than half the population lives in poverty, with rural and indigenous communities particularly affected. Per capita GDP was about $5,600 (2021 est.), and nearly half the population lives below the poverty line. Honduras is also a major transshipment point for cocaine bound for the United States.

Although primary school enrollment is near 100%, the quality of education is low, with high dropout and grade repetition rates and weak accountability.

Honduras gained independence from Spain in 1821 and has held regular elections since 1838. During the 1980s, the United States established a strong military presence in the country to support operations in neighboring El Salvador and Nicaragua, while developing strategic infrastructure.

The country was devastated by Hurricane Mitch in 1998, which killed about 5,600 people and caused approximately $2 billion in damage. While the economy has slowly rebounded, setbacks from COVID-19 and severe storms in 2020–21 remain.

Despite these hardships, Honduras offers extraordinary natural beauty.

Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands of Honduras, lies about 70 km off the north coast and 12 km from Roatán. Most of its 10,000 residents live on a nearby cay called Bonacca, often referred to as the Venice of Honduras for its waterways.

The Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge, on the Atlantic coast, is a protected area home to manatees, monkeys, and countless bird species. Its mangrove canals, fed by the Cuero and Salado rivers, create a rich brackish habitat where freshwater meets the sea.

The Cayos Cochinos (or Cochinos Cays) consist of two small islands and 13 coral cays northeast of La Ceiba. Although small in population (108 residents as of 2001), the islands form part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, the world’s second-largest barrier reef. With no roads, cars, or bikes, Cayos Cochinos remains a pristine marine reserve managed by the Honduras Coral Reef Foundation.

You can see more photos of Honduras here.

Sources: CIA World Factbook | Wikipedia | Honduras Official Tourism Site | Audley Travel

Belize: Natural Beauty with a Note of Caution

August 16, 2025

Belize borders the Caribbean Sea, between Guatemala and Mexico. With about 400,000 residents, it is the most sparsely populated nation in Central America. Roughly 60,000 people live in Belize City, the country’s economic center and main port. It is a frequent stop for cruise ships, though not without risk.

Belize is larger than El Salvador and about the size of Massachusetts. Slightly more than half the population lives in rural areas. English is the official language—Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America—but Kriol and Spanish are also widely spoken.

The Belize dollar (BZ$) is pegged to the U.S. dollar at BZ$2 = US$1, making conversion simple. U.S. dollars are accepted almost everywhere, but visitors often receive change in Belize dollars, which may be less convenient on short stays.

A former British colony once known as British Honduras, Belize gained independence in 1981 and is now a member of the Commonwealth, retaining King Charles III as head of state. After Hurricane Hattie devastated Belize City in 1961, the capital was moved inland to Belmopan, today the smallest capital city in the continental Americas.

Over sixty percent of Belize remains covered in forest. Tourism is a cornerstone of the economy, drawing travelers to the Belize Barrier Reef, more than 450 offshore cayes, wildlife reserves, Maya sites, and opportunities for diving, snorkeling, hiking, and birdwatching.

The United States established diplomatic relations in 1981, and today about 160,000 Belizeans live in the U.S.—the largest community outside Belize.

Yet safety is a serious concern. According to the U.S. Department of State, violent crime—including sexual assault, armed robbery, and murder—is common, even in tourist areas during daylight. Gang violence is widespread, police resources are limited, and many crimes remain unsolved. Visitors are advised to avoid the south side of Belize City.

I used to think that if a cruise ship docked somewhere, the port must be safe. I no longer believe that. When I landed in Belize City before joining a cruise, I quickly understood why the warnings are taken seriously. Belize City is best avoided if possible—there are far more beautiful and welcoming places to see.

On the cruise ship, though, and while exploring Belize’s waters and islands by zodiac and on foot, I felt safe and captivated by the natural beauty. The country’s reefs, cayes, and wildlife are unforgettable.

Sources: U.S. Department of State | CIA World Fact Book | World Population Review | Travel Belize | Wikipedia