A Lesson in Staying Awake

I had flown from Washington Dulles through Iceland, and by the time I reached Glasgow I wasn’t hungry so much as determined — determined to stay awake until a reasonable bedtime and reset my clock. Late afternoon I finally hit a wall, and hunger arrived all at once.

Most restaurants were nearly empty. Then I passed one that wasn’t.

I hadn’t come to Scotland for Italian food. But an empty dining room and a full one are telling you something, and I’ve learned to listen. I walked into Sugo.

The crowd was young and energetic — my sense was students on a budget who had found their place. Sugo’s promise is simple: fresh pasta made by hand, every day. The open kitchen was in almost constant motion, and you can see why — at that pace they more or less have to keep making it continuously. You order and the food arrives within minutes. What’s remarkable is that none of it feels rushed. The service is warm and genuinely friendly, as if speed and hospitality are simply not in conflict here.

The menu is short and regional — dishes from specific parts of Italy rather than a generic greatest hits list. I ordered the pappardelle with slow-cooked Tuscan beef ragù and a fresh mixed salad. The pasta was exactly what it should be. The salad was generous and tasted like it had been assembled that morning.

The prices are reasonable. It was the best meal of my trip, and I would return in a heartbeat.


When Crêpes Were Popular in Washington

I visited Washington for the first time as part of a weekend trip organized by my high school’s French club in the 1970s. We ate at Maison des Crêpes. I enjoyed it. The restaurant is long gone but I remember it and my trip when I pass by its former location in Georgetown.

The Streets of Washington blog recently shared this photograph of the Maison des Crêpes on Flickr and explained its history:

Maison des Crepes originally opened as La Crepe in 1967 at 1305 Wisconsin Avenue NW in Georgetown. It was the creation of Paris-born Jacques Vivien (1925-2010), who began his Washington career as the maitre d’ at The Jockey Club. Vivien was riding a fashion craze for creperies when he opened Washington’s first. He decorated the restaurant in French provincial style and had his waitresses decked out in Breton costumes. Eventually two other locations would open, and all would remain popular, especially with tourists, despite sometimes poor reviews from local dining critics. The original restaurant in Georgetown closed in the early 1980s.

This brought back nice memories. That weekend trip was wonderful.

You can read more about the restaurant here.