A Lesson in Staying Awake

I had flown from Washington Dulles through Iceland, and by the time I reached Glasgow I wasn’t hungry so much as determined — determined to stay awake until a reasonable bedtime and reset my clock. Late afternoon I finally hit a wall, and hunger arrived all at once.

Most restaurants were nearly empty. Then I passed one that wasn’t.

I hadn’t come to Scotland for Italian food. But an empty dining room and a full one are telling you something, and I’ve learned to listen. I walked into Sugo.

The crowd was young and energetic — my sense was students on a budget who had found their place. Sugo’s promise is simple: fresh pasta made by hand, every day. The open kitchen was in almost constant motion, and you can see why — at that pace they more or less have to keep making it continuously. You order and the food arrives within minutes. What’s remarkable is that none of it feels rushed. The service is warm and genuinely friendly, as if speed and hospitality are simply not in conflict here.

The menu is short and regional — dishes from specific parts of Italy rather than a generic greatest hits list. I ordered the pappardelle with slow-cooked Tuscan beef ragù and a fresh mixed salad. The pasta was exactly what it should be. The salad was generous and tasted like it had been assembled that morning.

The prices are reasonable. It was the best meal of my trip, and I would return in a heartbeat.

Inverness: A Castle That Isn’t a Castle

Inverness after the rain.

When I arrived in Inverness, I didn’t fully appreciate how far north I had come. The city sits at roughly the same latitude as Sitka, Alaska. Up here, the weather doesn’t simply change—it can shift with astonishing speed. One local told me that four seasons often pass in the span of ten minutes.

I learned that firsthand on a gray, sodden day. Wanting to visit Inverness Castle, I finished my lunch and hoped the downpour would ease. It didn’t. Eventually I pulled up my collar and headed out into the rain anyway.

Read more

Glasgow: A City That Earns You Over

St. Andrew’s Suspension Bridge

Iron, Water, and a City That Earns You Over

The first thing I saw from my hotel room was a bridge.

St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge spanned the River Clyde just outside my window, its wrought-iron frame catching the afternoon light in a way that stopped me mid-unpack. Built between 1853 and 1855 by engineer Neil Robson, it was not designed to be beautiful. It replaced a busy ferry crossing and carried workers from Bridgeton and Calton to the factories of Hutchesontown. Pure industrial necessity. And yet there it was — genuinely elegant.

That combination — beauty that was never trying to impress anyone — turned out to be Glasgow in miniature.

Read more

Hiroshima: Memory and Restraint

I visited Hiroshima in 2023. It was my first time there, but the weight of the city precedes any arrival.

What struck me most was not simply the history, but the presentation. The reality of what happened is dark and overwhelming. Yet the city conveys it with a spirit of quiet reflection. There is no spectacle. There is no apparent bitterness. Achieving that balance is incredibly difficult, and it is the thing I remember most clearly.

Read more

Tokyo: Order and Motion

View of Tokyo from Tokyo Tower with Mount Fuji in the distance. – © David H. Enzel, 2023

I visited Tokyo in 2023 for the first time. What I noticed immediately was how courteous people were. Interactions were quiet, respectful, and efficient, even in crowded places. It is not something easily quantified, but it shapes the experience in a way that becomes apparent very quickly.

Tokyo is one of the largest metropolitan areas in the world, with a population of roughly 37 million people. That scale makes what follows all the more striking.

Read more

Auckland: Between Two Harbours

Auckland sits on a narrow isthmus, caught between two bodies of water.

To the north, the Waitematā Harbour opens to the Pacific Ocean. To the south, the Manukau Harbour connects to the Tasman Sea. This geography defines the city. It is New Zealand’s economic center and its primary gateway to the world, home to roughly a third of the country’s population.

I had been told that Auckland was a city to pass through quickly. That proved to be wrong. It simply requires a bit of patience. It is a place that reveals itself gradually, rather than all at once.

Read more

Milford Sound: Power in the Mist

Milford Sound sits deep within Fiordland National Park on the southwest coast of the South Island.

Reaching it requires a long drive through mountain passes and dense forest. The journey alone tells you that you are going somewhere distinct.

Somewhere remote.

I arrived under a low, heavy sky. The mist never fully lifted, and in this place, that felt entirely appropriate. Clouds moved slowly across the peaks, revealing a jagged edge one moment and concealing it the next. It gave the landscape a shifting, unsettled quality that a camera can only partially capture.

Despite the name, it isn’t actually a sound.

Read more

Washington’s Cherry Blossoms at Their Peak

Washington’s cherry blossoms are now in full bloom.

Each spring, the city changes almost overnight. Washington is usually defined by its permanence—heavy marble, wide avenues, a city built to project endurance. And, at times, one demonstration after another.

But for a few weeks, that permanence is softened by something entirely fragile.

Pale pinks and whites line the Tidal Basin and spread outward into the neighborhoods. The hard, stone edges of the capital are suddenly framed by millions of delicate petals. For a brief period, the city feels lighter, quieter, and more open.

It is easy to forget, living here year after year, just how beautiful Washington can be.

The routine of daily life tends to flatten that awareness. But mornings like this—standing by the water as the sun rises behind the blossoms—restore it.

The light, the trees, the reflections on the water—it all comes together in a way that feels both simple and fleeting.

In a few days, the petals will begin to fall, and the city will return to its heavier, more familiar self.

But for now, Washington is at its best.

Rotorua: Culture at the Surface

Rotorua is different from other places in New Zealand. The difference is not subtle.

It has one of the largest and most visible Māori populations in the country. Over 40% of Rotorua’s residents are Māori—well above the national average—and the region sits within the traditional rohe of Te Arawa iwi. That presence is not confined to cultural sites or performances. It is part of everyday life.

Rotorua Primary School, where Māori culture and modern education come together in everyday life.

You hear te reo Māori—the Māori language—spoken in schools and in public spaces. Marae are part of the landscape. Cultural expression is visible, but more importantly, it is continuous. It does not feel preserved for visitors. It feels lived.

Read more