Travel – Page 3 – David Enzel

Belize: Natural Beauty with a Note of Caution

August 16, 2025

Belize borders the Caribbean Sea, between Guatemala and Mexico. With about 400,000 residents, it is the most sparsely populated nation in Central America. Roughly 60,000 people live in Belize City, the country’s economic center and main port. It is a frequent stop for cruise ships, though not without risk.

Belize is larger than El Salvador and about the size of Massachusetts. Slightly more than half the population lives in rural areas. English is the official language—Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America—but Kriol and Spanish are also widely spoken.

The Belize dollar (BZ$) is pegged to the U.S. dollar at BZ$2 = US$1, making conversion simple. U.S. dollars are accepted almost everywhere, but visitors often receive change in Belize dollars, which may be less convenient on short stays.

A former British colony once known as British Honduras, Belize gained independence in 1981 and is now a member of the Commonwealth, retaining King Charles III as head of state. After Hurricane Hattie devastated Belize City in 1961, the capital was moved inland to Belmopan, today the smallest capital city in the continental Americas.

Over sixty percent of Belize remains covered in forest. Tourism is a cornerstone of the economy, drawing travelers to the Belize Barrier Reef, more than 450 offshore cayes, wildlife reserves, Maya sites, and opportunities for diving, snorkeling, hiking, and birdwatching.

The United States established diplomatic relations in 1981, and today about 160,000 Belizeans live in the U.S.—the largest community outside Belize.

Yet safety is a serious concern. According to the U.S. Department of State, violent crime—including sexual assault, armed robbery, and murder—is common, even in tourist areas during daylight. Gang violence is widespread, police resources are limited, and many crimes remain unsolved. Visitors are advised to avoid the south side of Belize City.

I used to think that if a cruise ship docked somewhere, the port must be safe. I no longer believe that. When I landed in Belize City before joining a cruise, I quickly understood why the warnings are taken seriously. Belize City is best avoided if possible—there are far more beautiful and welcoming places to see.

On the cruise ship, though, and while exploring Belize’s waters and islands by zodiac and on foot, I felt safe and captivated by the natural beauty. The country’s reefs, cayes, and wildlife are unforgettable.

Sources: U.S. Department of State | CIA World Fact Book | World Population Review | Travel Belize | Wikipedia

Lake Needwood: A Year-Round Retreat

August 16, 2025

Lake Needwood is a 75-acre reservoir in Derwood, Maryland, created in 1965 by damming Rock Creek to help with flood control and soil erosion. Nestled just east of Rockville, in Montgomery County, the lake is also the starting point of the Rock Creek Trail, which winds its way down to the Potomac River in Washington, D.C. Today, it’s a favorite spot for walking, biking, and running.

I often walk at Lake Needwood. It’s a calming refuge in a busy suburban county, and I enjoy it in every season — especially in the fall, when the trees blaze with color and the light turns golden.

You can see more photos of Lake Needwood here.

Decatur House: A Historic Home Near the White House

August 16, 2025

Decatur House is one of Washington’s most historic homes, standing just steps from the White House at the corner of Lafayette Square. Built in 1818 by the great neoclassical architect Benjamin Henry Latrobe, it is one of only three of his houses still standing in the United States.

Portrait of Stephen Decatur Jr. in Decatur House

The home was commissioned by Stephen Decatur Jr., a celebrated naval officer who became the nation’s first post–Revolutionary War hero. Decatur supervised the construction of U.S. naval vessels, commanded them in battle, and won fame for his victories against pirates and foreign adversaries. His promising career ended abruptly in 1820, when he was killed in a duel with fellow officer James Barron. Decatur’s death at just 41 shocked the young republic.

In 1836, later owners added an outbuilding behind the house, which included slave quarters — a reminder that the grandeur of Lafayette Square coexisted with the realities of enslavement.

Today, Decatur House is both a museum and the home of the National Center for White House History, operated by the White House Historical Association, the nonprofit founded by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy in 1961 to preserve and share the history of America’s Executive Mansion. The association offers free public tours of Decatur House every Monday (excluding federal holidays and the Monday after Thanksgiving). The house and courtyard can also be rented for private events, including weddings. A small shop offers books, gifts, and keepsakes that make excellent mementos of a visit to the nation’s capital.

Standing in its elegant rooms, it’s easy to sense the layers of history — from Decatur’s tragic end to the continuing work of preserving White House history. Decatur House remains both a monument to a naval hero and a reminder of the complexities of America’s past.

Sources: The White House Historical Association | National Trust for Historic Preservation | National Park Service | Wikipedia

Where Hitler’s Crowds Once Roared

August 18, 2025August 16, 2025

Between 1933 and 1938, Nazi Germany staged massive rallies in Nuremberg. The former Nazi Party Rally Grounds remain the largest surviving complex of National Socialist architecture in today’s Germany. Designed by Hitler’s architect Albert Speer, the vast structures still convey the immense power of Nazi propaganda. Speer was later convicted of war crimes and crimes against humanity at the International Military Tribunal in Nuremberg. He served 20 years in prison and died in London in 1981.

The Zeppelinfeld (Zeppelin Field), shown above, is one of the most striking remains. Its massive grandstand, 360 meters wide, was modeled on the Pergamon Altar of ancient Greece, with square piers inspired by Franco-American architect Paul Philippe Cret. After Germany’s defeat in 1945, American forces famously blew the swastika from its top. The name “Zeppelinfeld” refers to the landing of Count Zeppelin’s airship (LZ6) here in 1909.

I visited in April 2024, on a cold and windy day, with my cousin from Nuremberg who graciously served as my guide. The site felt stark, desolate, and impossibly vast—its scale resisting any attempt to capture it in photographs. Only a handful of visitors were there, but the immensity of the place chilled me. I tried to imagine the grounds filled with uniformed followers of Adolf Hitler, roaring in unison. The thought sent a shiver down my spine.

How could this have happened in Germany—a country with such a deep tradition of culture, learning, and science? Could it happen again? Is it already happening? The pull of the far right has not disappeared; it is rising once more.

What happened here was not inevitable. It can happen again.

The Peabody Room: Georgetown’s Window into Local History

August 16, 2025

The Peabody Room is a special collection dedicated to Georgetown neighborhood history and is part of The People’s Archive, the D.C. Public Library’s local history center focused on Washington, D.C. and African American history and culture. Among its resources is a house history file covering many Georgetown home

Peabody Room, Georgetown Library

This local branch dates back to 1875, when the first library in Georgetown was funded by George Peabody (1795–1869), an American financier and philanthropist.

Peabody was born into a poor family in Massachusetts. He began in the dry goods trade and later moved into banking. In 1837, he relocated to London—then the capital of world finance—where he became the most noted American banker and helped to establish the young nation’s international credit.

Having no son of his own, Peabody took on Junius Spencer Morgan as a partner in 1854. Their joint business would evolve into the global financial services firm J.P. Morgan & Co. after Peabody’s 1864 retirement.### George Peabody’s Legacy

Peabody is often considered the father of modern philanthropy. His charitable initiatives included:

The Peabody Trust in Britain
The Peabody Institute
The George Peabody Library i in Baltimore

For his generosity, he was awarded the Congressional Gold Medal and named a Freeman of the City of London.

Fire and Renewal

In 2007, a large fire broke out at the Georgetown Library, severely damaging much of the building and causing the roof to collapse. The blaze irreparably damaged parts of the library’s holdings and artwork, including items in the Peabody collection.

Repairs and a major renovation were completed in 2010, restoring the library and ensuring the Peabody Room’s continued role as a steward of Georgetown’s history.

La Maison de Molière: A Living Tradition in Paris

August 15, 2025

As a lover of France and its language, walking into the Comédie-Française feels like stepping into the heart of French culture. Founded in 1680 by decree of Louis XIV, it is the world’s oldest active theater company and the only state theater in France with its own permanent troupe of actors.

Its main stage, the Salle Richelieu, stands within the Palais-Royal complex in the 1st arrondissement. The setting is both grand and intimate — a space steeped in history yet alive with contemporary energy.

Often called La Maison de Molière, the theater honors the playwright most closely tied to its legacy. Though Molière died before the company was formally created, the Comédiens-Français still perform his plays and pay tribute to him each January 15.

The Comédie-Française is often associated with the classical repertoire, but creation has always been central to its mission. In 2023, I saw a modern staging of Médée d’après Euripide that showed just how vital and daring the troupe remains.

If you speak French, it’s worth buying a ticket. Sitting in that gilded hall, you’re not just a spectator — you’re part of a living tradition more than three centuries old.

Salle Richelieu, Comédie-Française, Paris © David H. Enzel, 2023

Where Paris High-Rises Become Art

August 15, 2025

The 13th arrondissement of Paris is dominated by modern high-rise buildings, a sharp contrast to the historic architecture of the city center. Many now feature large-scale murals by French and international urban artists. There are more than fifty in total. This thoughtful initiative—not just decoration, but deliberate place-making—aims to bring warmth to otherwise stark facades.

This inventive urban renewal effort brings color and character to the neighborhood, offering a different experience from the artistic treasures of central Paris.

A Parisian Museum, a Family’s Tragedy, and the Lessons of History

August 14, 2025August 13, 2025

The Musée Nissim de Camondo is a historic house museum of French decorative arts, located in the Hôtel Camondo at 63 rue de Monceau, on the edge of Parc Monceau in Paris’s 8th arrondissement.

The home was built in 1911 by Ottoman-born Jewish banker and art collector Count Moïse de Camondo, inspired by the Petit Trianon at Versailles. It was designed to house his remarkable collection of decorative arts and fine furniture.

Tragedy shaped its fate. In 1917, the Count’s only son, Nissim, was killed in World War I. Shattered by the loss, the Count withdrew from society and dedicated himself entirely to perfecting his collection. When he died in 1935, he left the house and all it contained to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, stipulating that it become a museum in Nissim’s memory.

Just nine years later, the Count’s last surviving heir, his daughter Béatrice, was deported to Auschwitz along with her family during the Nazi occupation of France. None survived. The Camondo family line ended, leaving the house as its sole surviving legacy.

The Washington Monument

August 14, 2025August 12, 2025

The Washington Monument honors George Washington (1732–1799), the nation’s first president, and stands at the heart of the U.S. capital. Designed by Robert Mills and completed under the direction of Lt. Col. Thomas Lincoln Casey and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, it is built in the form of an Egyptian obelisk, evoking the timelessness of ancient civilizations. When it was completed in 1884, at 555 feet, 5 1/8 inches (169 meters), it was the tallest structure in the world, holding that title until the Eiffel Tower surpassed it in 1889.

Origins and Design

The geometric layout of Washington, D.C., designed by Pierre L’Enfant, reserved a prominent site for a monument to Washington at the intersection of lines radiating south from the White House and west from the Capitol. In 1833, the Washington National Monument Society formed to fund and build a memorial “unparalleled in the world.” After a decade of fundraising and design competitions, the Society selected Robert Mills’ ambitious 1845 plan: a 600-foot obelisk surrounded by thirty 100-foot columns.

Construction

Construction began on July 4, 1848, with a cornerstone-laying ceremony attended by President James K. Polk, Dolley Madison, Eliza Hamilton, George Washington Parke Custis, and future presidents Buchanan, Lincoln, and Johnson. By 1854, the monument had reached 156 feet before work stalled due to political infighting and lack of funds.

In 1876, Congress assumed responsibility for completing the monument. Casey’s first priority was strengthening the foundation, which took four years. Matching the original stone proved difficult—three different quarries ultimately supplied stone, resulting in the color variations visible today. The final height was set at 555 feet, ten times the base width, and Mills’ elaborate colonnade was abandoned in favor of a simple, clean obelisk form.

Dedication and Early Public Access

The monument was dedicated on February 21, 1885, one day before Washington’s birthday. Inscriptions on the aluminum cap commemorate key dates and individuals involved, with the east face bearing the Latin phrase Laus Deo (“Praise be to God”). The public first accessed the monument in 1886 via an iron staircase; a public elevator was added in 1888. Today, 193 commemorative stones from states, cities, civic groups, and foreign nations line the interior walls, including a marble slab from the Parthenon inscribed in Greek.

Modern History and Restoration

The steam elevator was replaced by an electric model in 1901. The National Park Service assumed jurisdiction in 1933. Major restorations occurred in 1934, 1964, 1998–2001, 2011–2014 (after earthquake damage), and 2016–2019 (elevator modernization).

Visiting Today

The Washington Monument is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except on December 25 and July 4, and one day each month for maintenance. Timed reservations are required, available online or in person at the Washington Monument Lodge on 15th Street. The nearest Metro stations are Federal Triangle and Smithsonian.

Sources: National Park Service | Wikipedia | National Park Foundation | Classical Inquiries

Les Invalides: Paris’s Golden Landmark

August 18, 2025August 12, 2025

Built in the late 17th century under King Louis XIV, Les Invalides was originally designed as a home and hospital for war veterans. Today, it stands as one of Paris’s most iconic sites—part military museum, part monument, and the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Located in the 7th arrondissement, Les Invalides houses the Musée de l’Armée (Army Museum), which showcases centuries of French military history, from medieval armor to World War II artifacts. The golden dome of the Dôme des Invalides is visible from across Paris, glinting in the sunlight and dominating the skyline.

The site has played a role in pivotal moments of French history. It was stormed during the French Revolution in 1789, when rioters seized weapons stored inside. In 1840, Napoleon’s remains were brought here from Saint Helena and interred beneath the grand dome—a solemn resting place fit for an emperor. In 1906, the courtyard of Les Invalides was the setting for the formal rehabilitation ceremony of Alfred Dreyfus, marking the end of one of France’s most infamous miscarriages of justice.