The Reinvention of Riggs Bank: Washington Landmark Becomes the Milken Center

Across from the White House on Pennsylvania Avenue stands the former Riggs National Bank building—a fixture of Washington life for over a century. In 2015, the Milken Family Foundation acquired this landmark, along with adjacent properties, spending a combined $86.5 million to secure their presence at the heart of the nation’s capital. (Bisnow) $31 million went for the Riggs building at 1503–1505 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, while an additional $55.5 million covered the neighboring properties, including 1501 Pennsylvania Ave NW and 730 15th Street NW. (Bisnow)

This wasn’t just a real estate acquisition; it was a symbolic statement. The location—directly opposite the Treasury and a short walk from the White House—signals that the project goes beyond philanthropy. The decision to establish the Milken Center for Advancing the American Dream in such a prominent spot underscores a belief that the values of opportunity and aspiration are central to America’s civic life.

Although the Milken Center bears the name of financier Michael Milken, its story also reflects a broader arc of reinvention. In the 1980s, Milken rose to prominence on Wall Street as a pioneer of high-yield bonds before pleading guilty in 1990 to securities and tax violations, serving prison time, and paying substantial fines. He was later barred from the securities industry. In 2020, President Donald Trump granted him a full pardon, citing decades of philanthropic work. Since then, Milken has devoted his wealth and influence to medical research, education, and philanthropy through the Milken Family Foundation and the Milken Institute—the organizations behind the creation of this new cultural landmark in Washington.

The original Riggs building, completed in 1899 and designed by York & Sawyer, held a storied history as “the Bank of Presidents.” Today, it’s been transformed into a cultural destination that repurposes stability into inspiration.

The Hall of Generations

At the heart of the restored Riggs Bank hall stands the Tree of Generations, a luminous golden sculpture symbolizing the connections among innovators, artists, and entrepreneurs whose work has shaped the American story. The installation rises beneath a grand skylight and classical ornamentation, filling the space with both light and metaphor.

The Hall of Generations at the Milken Center for Advancing the American Dream, featuring the Tree of Generations—a golden sculpture celebrating the individuals whose creativity and perseverance have shaped America’s evolving story. © David H. Enzel, 2025

This Hall of Generations serves as the entry point to the Center’s galleries, which explore the pillars of the American Dream—education, health, financial empowerment, and entrepreneurship. It is a powerful visual reminder that individual achievement grows from shared roots.

Gold-Leaf Gallery

This gallery features a gold-leaf vaulted ceiling that casts a warm glow over rich wood paneling and contemporary seating. Located near the Stand Together Theater, it merges historic craftsmanship with modern storytelling displays—a quiet, contemplative space that honors the grandeur of the building’s banking past and the optimism of its new mission.

A Landmark Reimagined

The Milken Center’s completion marks the culmination of a decade-long restoration project that united five adjoining historic buildings into one interconnected institution. What once served as the headquarters of Washington’s most powerful bank now invites visitors to think about how opportunity itself is built, nurtured, and renewed.

In a city where history and symbolism matter, the Milken Center for Advancing the American Dream stands as both—a place that transforms marble and glass into a living conversation about possibility.

For now, the Milken Center’s architecture remains its most eloquent statement. The restored marble halls and gold-leaf ceilings are breathtaking—among the finest adaptive reuse projects in Washington. Yet the exhibits feel tentative, more gesture than substance, as if the space itself is still waiting to discover its voice. Perhaps that’s fitting: a monument to aspiration still in search of the story it wants to tell.

I’m glad I visited the Milken Center. It was moving to see the former Riggs Bank so beautifully restored, its marble and gold alive again. Yet the experience left me with mixed feelings. For all its polish and ambition, the project feels oddly sad—an immense investment in image and permanence when the same resources might have done more tangible good elsewhere.


Decatur House: A Historic Home Near the White House


Decatur House is one of Washington’s most historic homes, standing just steps from the White House at the corner of Lafayette Square. Built in 1818 by the great neoclassical architect Benjamin Henry Latrobe, it is one of only three of his houses still standing in the United States.

Portrait of Stephen Decatur Jr. in Decatur House

The home was commissioned by Stephen Decatur Jr., a celebrated naval officer who became the nation’s first post–Revolutionary War hero. Decatur supervised the construction of U.S. naval vessels, commanded them in battle, and won fame for his victories against pirates and foreign adversaries. His promising career ended abruptly in 1820, when he was killed in a duel with fellow officer James Barron. Decatur’s death at just 41 shocked the young republic.

In 1836, later owners added an outbuilding behind the house, which included slave quarters — a reminder that the grandeur of Lafayette Square coexisted with the realities of enslavement.

Today, Decatur House is both a museum and the home of the National Center for White House History, operated by the White House Historical Association, the nonprofit founded by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy in 1961 to preserve and share the history of America’s Executive Mansion. The association offers free public tours of Decatur House every Monday (excluding federal holidays and the Monday after Thanksgiving). The house and courtyard can also be rented for private events, including weddings. A small shop offers books, gifts, and keepsakes that make excellent mementos of a visit to the nation’s capital.

Standing in its elegant rooms, it’s easy to sense the layers of history — from Decatur’s tragic end to the continuing work of preserving White House history. Decatur House remains both a monument to a naval hero and a reminder of the complexities of America’s past.


Sources: The White House Historical Association | National Trust for Historic Preservation | National Park Service | Wikipedia


The Peabody Room: Georgetown’s Window into Local History

The Peabody Room is a special collection dedicated to Georgetown neighborhood history and is part of The People’s Archive, the D.C. Public Library’s local history center focused on Washington, D.C. and African American history and culture. Among its resources is a house history file covering many Georgetown home

Peabody Room, Georgetown Library

Peabody Room, Georgetown Library

This local branch dates back to 1875, when the first library in Georgetown was funded by George Peabody (1795–1869), an American financier and philanthropist.

Peabody was born into a poor family in Massachusetts. He began in the dry goods trade and later moved into banking. In 1837, he relocated to London—then the capital of world finance—where he became the most noted American banker and helped to establish the young nation’s international credit.

Having no son of his own, Peabody took on Junius Spencer Morgan as a partner in 1854. Their joint business would evolve into the global financial services firm J.P. Morgan & Co. after Peabody’s 1864 retirement.### George Peabody’s Legacy

Peabody is often considered the father of modern philanthropy. His charitable initiatives included:

For his generosity, he was awarded the Congressional Gold Medal and named a Freeman of the City of London.

Fire and Renewal

In 2007, a large fire broke out at the Georgetown Library, severely damaging much of the building and causing the roof to collapse. The blaze irreparably damaged parts of the library’s holdings and artwork, including items in the Peabody collection.

Repairs and a major renovation were completed in 2010, restoring the library and ensuring the Peabody Room’s continued role as a steward of Georgetown’s history.


Sources: Georgetown Library | Wikipedia | Georgetown Property Listings | The Hoya | Have You Visited the Peabody Room? | Mapping Georgetown: Meet the Real McCoy of the Peabody Room


Vietnam Veterans Memorial

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., honors U.S. service members who served in the Vietnam War. Its black granite walls bear the names of more than 58,000 men and women who gave their lives during the conflict. Completed in 1982, the Memorial Wall was later joined by the Three Soldiers statue in 1984 and the Vietnam Women’s Memorial in 1993.

Set within Constitution Gardens, just northeast of the Lincoln Memorial, the site is maintained by the National Park Service and draws more than five million visitors each year. The Wall’s striking, minimalist design was created by American architect Maya Lin, born in Ohio in 1959. In 2007, it was ranked tenth on the American Institute of Architects’ “List of America’s Favorite Architecture.” As a national memorial, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

I began photographing the Wall in 2002. At the time, I knew I wanted to take on a long-term photo project but had no clear idea what it would be. One day, I visited the memorial, took a few photographs, and later posted them in an online forum. Soon after, I returned to make more images and shared those as well. A kind stranger replied: “It looks like you’ve found your project.” That simple comment stayed with me.

Over the years, I’ve returned again and again—sometimes during the thunder of motorcycles from Rolling Thunder, other times in the stillness of Veterans Day dawn. More than two decades later, this remains my longest-running body of work. I’ve witnessed the Wall as a place of quiet remembrance and healing—for veterans, families, friends, and strangers alike.

The photographs here reflect that journey, capturing both intimate moments of reflection and the collective gatherings that honor those who served and sacrificed.


I wanted to create a memorial that everyone would be able to respond to, regardless of whether one thought our country should or should not have participated in the war.”

Maya Lin, Designer of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Sources: National Park Service | U.S. Department of Defense | Vietnam Veterans Memorial Fund | Wikipedia | Rolling to Remember


The Washington Monument

The Washington Monument honors George Washington (1732–1799), the nation’s first president, and stands at the heart of the U.S. capital. Designed by Robert Mills and completed under the direction of Lt. Col. Thomas Lincoln Casey and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, it is built in the form of an Egyptian obelisk, evoking the timelessness of ancient civilizations. When it was completed in 1884, at 555 feet, 5 1/8 inches (169 meters), it was the tallest structure in the world, holding that title until the Eiffel Tower surpassed it in 1889.

Origins and Design

The geometric layout of Washington, D.C., designed by Pierre L’Enfant, reserved a prominent site for a monument to Washington at the intersection of lines radiating south from the White House and west from the Capitol. In 1833, the Washington National Monument Society formed to fund and build a memorial “unparalleled in the world.” After a decade of fundraising and design competitions, the Society selected Robert Mills’ ambitious 1845 plan: a 600-foot obelisk surrounded by thirty 100-foot columns.

Construction

Construction began on July 4, 1848, with a cornerstone-laying ceremony attended by President James K. Polk, Dolley Madison, Eliza Hamilton, George Washington Parke Custis, and future presidents Buchanan, Lincoln, and Johnson. By 1854, the monument had reached 156 feet before work stalled due to political infighting and lack of funds.

In 1876, Congress assumed responsibility for completing the monument. Casey’s first priority was strengthening the foundation, which took four years. Matching the original stone proved difficult—three different quarries ultimately supplied stone, resulting in the color variations visible today. The final height was set at 555 feet, ten times the base width, and Mills’ elaborate colonnade was abandoned in favor of a simple, clean obelisk form.

Dedication and Early Public Access

The monument was dedicated on February 21, 1885, one day before Washington’s birthday. Inscriptions on the aluminum cap commemorate key dates and individuals involved, with the east face bearing the Latin phrase Laus Deo (“Praise be to God”). The public first accessed the monument in 1886 via an iron staircase; a public elevator was added in 1888. Today, 193 commemorative stones from states, cities, civic groups, and foreign nations line the interior walls, including a marble slab from the Parthenon inscribed in Greek.

Modern History and Restoration

The steam elevator was replaced by an electric model in 1901. The National Park Service assumed jurisdiction in 1933. Major restorations occurred in 1934, 1964, 1998–2001, 2011–2014 (after earthquake damage), and 2016–2019 (elevator modernization).

Visiting Today

The Washington Monument is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except on December 25 and July 4, and one day each month for maintenance. Timed reservations are required, available online or in person at the Washington Monument Lodge on 15th Street. The nearest Metro stations are Federal Triangle and Smithsonian.

Sources: National Park Service | Wikipedia | National Park Foundation | Classical Inquiries

Rafael Nadal in Washington

At the 2021 Washington Open, I was lucky enough to watch Rafael Nadal practice—just weeks before he suffered an injury that forced him to withdraw from the tournament.

Nadal’s career is legendary: 22 Grand Slam men’s singles titles, including a record 14 French Opens; 92 ATP-level singles titles, among them 36 Masters 1000 crowns and an Olympic gold medal—with 63 total titles won on clay. After a final appearance for Spain in the 2024 Davis Cup Finals, Nadal officially retired on November 19, 2024.

Watching him then, I didn’t realize I was glimpsing the end of an era—not just a great player, but one of tennis’s most profound champions.

Abram Enzel (1916-1994)

Abram Enzel was born in Częstochowa, Poland, on June 18, 1916, to Chaim and Faigle Enzel. Chaim worked as a kosher butcher. They had five children — three boys and two girls — with Abram as the firstborn. In 1939, there were 28,500 Jews living in Częstochowa, about 124 miles (200 km) southeast of Warsaw.

The Germans entered Częstochowa on Sunday, September 3, 1939, and persecution of its Jews began immediately. More than 300 Jews were killed the following day, in what became known as “Bloody Monday.” On December 25, 1939, a second pogrom took place, and the Great Synagogue was set on fire. The family survived both pogroms.

On the morning after Yom Kippur in September 1942, Abram was separated from his family. One brother, Nathan, had previously been taken by the Germans to a concentration camp. The rest of Abram’s family was gassed and cremated three days later in Treblinka.

Abram was sent to work in a munitions plant operated by HASAG (Hugo Schneider Aktiengesellschaft-Metalwarenfabrik, Leipzig), one of the largest German industrial companies using concentration camp prisoners to manufacture armaments. HASAG was the third largest such company after I.G. Farben and the Hermann Göring Werke. It operated four camps in Częstochowa, the largest of which — HASAG-Apparatebau — held 7,000 Jewish prisoners. The wages of these forced laborers were paid directly to the SS. Those unfit for work were killed under the policy of Vernichtung durch Arbeit (“extermination through work”). From July 1944 to early 1945, HASAG moved most of its equipment and Jewish workers to Germany. No HASAG personnel were tried by the Allies at Nuremberg.

In 1944, Abram was transferred from HASAG to Gross-Rosen, then to Flossenbürg, and finally to Dachau. One of his most haunting memories was the transfer from Flossenbürg to Dachau with 500 prisoners. In a 1973 Pittsburgh Press interview, Abram recalled: “They made us march at first. But later they herded us like cattle on some old freight cars.” Only 18 of the 500 survived to reach Dachau — Abram among them.

On April 29, 1945, the 42nd and 45th Infantry Divisions and the 20th Armored Division of the U.S. Army liberated Dachau. The next day, Adolf Hitler committed suicide. Abram weighed just 78 pounds at liberation, compared to a healthy 130 pounds before the war.

By June 1946, 2,167 Jews had returned to Częstochowa, but Abram chose not to. He recovered in Germany, ran a grocery store in Bayreuth, and emigrated to the United States in 1951, settling in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

In Pittsburgh, Abram met Dora Weiss, a survivor from Munkács, Czechoslovakia (now Mukačevo, Ukraine). Her parents were murdered in Auschwitz. They married on June 8, 1952, and had one son, David, born January 21, 1955.

Dora died of cancer on July 30, 1958, at age 35. Abram never remarried. He worked at H.J. Heinz before joining the Concordia Club, where he rose from busboy to maître d’. He considered his 30 years there the happiest of his life.

David moved to Washington, D.C., in 1979. Abram retired in 1981 and soon followed. He died on May 10, 1994, in Washington, the capital of the country that had liberated him.

Abram’s oral history is available from the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum and the American Jewish Committee Oral History Collection at the New York Public Library, part of the Dorot Jewish Division’s archive of over 6,000 hours of interviews.




Additional Resources


A Deeply Divided America

The United States is deeply divided as these images at the White House, the Supreme Court and the U.S. Capitol portray.

One of the Most Famous Paintings Ever Created, on View at the National Gallery of Art

Impression, Sunrise,” which usually lives in Paris at the Musée Marmottan Monet, is in the United States for the first time. It’s the star item in “Paris 1874: The Impressionist Moment,” at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC.

“Paris 1874: The Impressionist Moment,” is an important presentation of 130 works including a rare reunion of many of the paintings first featured in that now-legendary Société Anonyme exhibition 150 years ago, which is recognized as the event that gave birth to French Impressionism. On April 15, 1874, the first impressionist exhibition opened in Paris. Hungry for independence, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Morisot, Pissarro, Sisley and Cézanne decided to free themselves from the rules by holding their own exhibition, outside official channels: impressionism was born.

You can see paintings by Paul CézanneClaude MonetBerthe Morisot, and Camille Pissarro and meet their lesser-known contemporaries. See the art norms they were rebelling against and learn what political and social shifts sparked their new approach to art.

The show is on view until January 19, 2025 at the National Gallery of Art. This exhibition is not ticketed. You may need to join a line on busier days. Weekends tend to be most crowded.



Sources: National Gallery of Art | Musée d’Orsay | Wikipedia | The Washington Post | The Wall Street Journal

Folger Shakespeare Library in Washington, DC

Henry Clay Folger (1857-1930) and his wife, Emily Jordan Folger (1858-1936), established the Folger Shakespeare Library as a gift to the American people, after decades of assembling the world’s largest collection of Shakespeare materials. It opened in 1932, two years after the death of Henry Folger. The Folger’s collection features the 82 First Folios of Shakespeare, the 1623 publication that is one of the most sought-after and important books in the history of publishing.

Henry Folger was a first cousin six times removed of Benjamin Franklin and a nephew of J. A. Folger, the founder of Folger Coffee.

After opening, the Folger steadily expanded its holdings to become a world-class research center on the early modern period, while remaining the premier center for Shakespeare studies and resources outside of England. The Folger has the world’s largest collection of the printed works of William Shakespeare, and is a primary repository for rare materials from the early modern period (1500–1750) in Britain and Europe.

The Folger’s public outreach programs, beginning in the library’s early decades with exhibitions, lectures, and publications, have also grown over time.

Emily Folger wrote of Henry Folger’s belief that Shakespeare “is one of our best sources, one of the wells from which we Americans draw our national thought, our faith and our hope.” This belief in the deep connection between Shakespeare and America is the reason the Folger Shakespeare Library is located in the nation’s capital.

The Folgers worked closely with the French-born architect Paul Philippe Cret (1876-1945) to create a marble building which reads like a book, and whose placement testified to the hope that Washington, DC, would become the nation’s civic and cultural capital.

The Folger collection began in 1889 with Henry Folger’s first purchase of a rare book, a copy of the 1685 Fourth Folio of Shakespeare’s plays. By the time the collection was transported to the new library, it amounted to 200,000 items.

In 1938, the library acquired the collection of the late Sir Robert Leicester Harmsworth, comprising more than 8,000 rare books printed in England between 1475 and 1640. Together with later acquisitions, the Harmsworth purchase expanded the Folger’s focus beyond Shakespeare studies to include virtually all aspects of the early modern period in Europe.

From 1948 to 1968, Folger Director Louis B. Wright added substantial materials from the Renaissance in Europe, acquiring 22,000 continental books and 19,000 more English books.

The Folger continues to make new acquisitions of rare material.

In 1930, the library was placed in trust of Amherst College, Henry Folger’s alma mater. The library building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The beautiful Reading Room officially opened in January 1933 and today contains reference works for easy accessibility to readers. Henry Folger wanted the Library’s reading room to feel at once like a private home and the Great Hall of an English college. It features stained-glass windows and a large stone fireplace which has never been used. The large stained-glass window overlooking what is now the Gail Kern Paster Reading Room was designed and created by Nicola D’Ascenzo (1871-1954), an Italian-born American stained glass designer, painter and instructor. The Reading Room also features 16th- and 17th-century French and Flemish tapestries, carved oak paneling and a high trussed roof.

On a hall screen at the east end hang portraits of the Folgers in their academic robes, painted by the British artist Frank O. Salisbury (1874-1962). Above the Salisbury portraits is a bust of Shakespeare based on his memorial in Holy Trinity Church, Stratford-upon-Avon. The ashes of both Folgers are immured behind a memorial plaque.

At the west end of the Reading Room is one of the Folger’s treasures, a large stained-glass window depicting the Seven Ages of Man from Jaques’s speech in As You Like It. Although the window is exposed to exterior sunlight, it is in an interior space and is not visible from outside the building.

The intimate Elizabethan Theatre is the setting for Folger Theatre productions. With its three-tiered wooden balconies, carved oak columns, and half-timbered facade, the Theatre evokes the courtyard of an English Renaissance inn. The theater seats around 260. It has no pit. The first theatrical performance in the Elizabethan Theatre was a 1949 production of Julius Caesar.

A major four-year expansion and renovation led by Kieran Timberlake was completed in 2024.

The Folger Shakespeare Library (201 E. Capitol St. SE) is open 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, with extended hours to 9 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Free timed entry passes are recommended.


Sources: Official Site | Wikipedia | The Washington Post